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On the surface conditions for gay Dubaiians might seem bleak, but thanks to some quickly acquired gay friends I learn quickly that, despite the legalities, a vibrant gay scene flourishes. In fact, thanks to a huge population of young professional expats, the scene is one of the most multicultural and diverse around.
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I break my Dubai gay club virginity at one of the most popular hangouts. Entering via an underground carpark on a Saturday evening, my male friend and I encounter the uneven door policies that are rife throughout gay venues a vague attempt to curb gay activity. Men arriving solo or in all-male groups pay more, queue separately and are often denied entry altogether. Inside, the place is packed to the rafters with a United Nations of men: butch Lebanese and their Asian playthings mingle with trendily dressed Europeans and a smatterings of Australians, Americans, Canadians, alongside Indians and Pakistanis.
A Syrian man moves close to me on the dance floor, touching my waist and pushing against me in a way that made his intentions very clear. Passing on that offer, I quickly meet an equally forward New Zealander working as crew for Emirates Airlines where a large portion of the city's gay contingent work.
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I also quickly learn that, if you know the right people, there are a raft of unofficial parties going on in plush villas across the emirate. And while the UAE employs strict censors to prevent access to pornography or dating websites, an easily downloadable program bypasses censors to allow access to dating and hook-up sites, such as Grindr and Tinder. Though I had a boyfriend an English expat for the bulk of my time in the city, my gay friends played the field extensively and I know from their respective tales that there was no shortage of action.
After all, given that the bulk of Dubai's population is comprised of expats figures suggest roughly plus per cent many of whom are young and single, it stands to reason that a decent amount of coupling will take place. Indeed, with a melting pot of party-loving Aussies and Brits, lubricated with large quantities of booze, no matter if you're gay OR straight, bedhopping is a cert. While Dubai has become something of a gay Mecca for Arabs from surrounding countries where there are even harsher views on homosexuality you can't get much harsher than the death penalty, after all gays in the city can't afford to rest on their laurels.
Despite the fact that both myself and my friends felt safely cocooned in our expat bubble of all-day, alcohol-fuelled brunches and glamorous event after event; for those unlucky enough to fall foul of the law, the consequences are severe.
According to the International Lesbian and Gay Association, consensual gay sex in Dubai is punishable by up to 10 years in prison. Because the mentality here is that gay men need to be deterred from homosexual activity, police raids of clubs and private parties are common. For a time, the authorities even patrolled the plethora of Dubai malls, searching for "obvious" signs of homosexuality. When unsuspecting gay men are entrapped, the consequences of their sexuality are dependent on their nationality.
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